![]() This is critical to the part’s function and if tightened too much the knock sensor may not operate properly.įor the threaded type this should be between 20-25 ft-lbs with the bolted type around 15-20 ft-lbs. One last point to investigate is the torque at which the sensor has been fastened. If no voltage is present check all wiring to ensure that there is no damage to the circuitry. If the correct resistance is present, check the electrical connectors associated to the knock sensor. If this is not the case the sensor is probably faulty. The resistance should be between 2,000 and 3,000 ohm. This type of combustion outside the normal cycle can be destructive to the engine, highlighting its importanceīefore removing a knock sensor, ensure that the ignition is turned off.įirstly, check the resistance of the sensor using a multimeter you can do this by connecting it to the sensor’s connectors. SPECIAL FEATURES SIGN UP TO PART INFO DOWNLOAD TECHNICAL LINKSĭetects the combustion of pockets of air and fuel outside the normal ignition cycle (engine knocking) I'll figure it out.USER CONTRIBUTIONS ASK THE EXPERTS E-LEARNING TECHNICAL SUPPORT CONTACTS PRIVACY POLICY I don't really suspect the fuel distributor at this time, due to the fact that under full throttle, it runs spectacularly, wow! It's just partial throttle that it bogs.Īnd so it goes. (getting some house painting done before the rain). I will just buy two knock sensors and try to put them in, I've heard that because they are underneath the engine mounts, I will have to lift the engine off it's mount to change it, but I haven't had time to look at that yet. I've thrown a lot of parts at the thing, and improved it enormously since I bought this "lost cause" for $1500! It's only clocked 94,000 miles, one owner, garaged, California car with zero corrosion on anything. It adjusts the throttle plate's relationship to the fuel distributor. Apparently, California cars were the only ones with this. Low volume reverberations from the engine which ranges from 6 to 8 kHz are common. ![]() When this happens, the sensor picks up the noise or the vibration being made. It has CIS injection, with OBD1 diagnostic port, that has a blinker built into it. The knock sensor works by sensing the knocks, or noises, the engine makes when the pressure and heat in the engine is too much. Here is a pic.Ĭlick to expand.I appreciate your efforts to help me, I really do! I will next clean the main ground strap, to make sure it is good. (I installed a ground strap from the exhaust clamp near the sensor, to the body of the car). (new sensor installed)Ĩ= Altitude pressure signal from ignition control module illogicalġ7= Oxygen sensor is shorted to positive or ground. Which on my list refers to:ĥ="Oxygen sensor signal illogical. So, the only thing that controls the timing is the knock sensors. Never stalls or sputters, just doesn't go. Starting off from a stop light, the initial 20 feet is okay, then the engine just stops accelerating, as in completely retarded timing. When the cold start clicks off, then it begins. When engine if cold, the car runs very normally, acceleration is normal, lots of power. ![]() When I adjust the idle screw, it can make a difference, and sometimes it doesn't. I will try to describe what is happening when I drive. I don't know for sure, but if the EZL is faulty, I am not sure the engine would run? Dunno. ![]() I checked with K6JRF, who initially alerted me to the approach in a private email, but he didn't know what the resistance should read.Ĭlick to expand.Thank you so much for all you have done, valuable information for me.Īt this point, I either replace both sensors (fairly cheap), or replace the EZL (not so cheap). If somebody could check their car by pulling that connector and measuring sensor 1 and sensor 2 (they should be the same reading-or roughly the same), then I could compare it to mine. What isn't clear to me is what the resistance should read. One of those pins is ground, the other two are the left and right sensor. My understanding is that when you put an ohm meter on connection N1/3 you can measure a passive resistance through the sensor. So these old girls were ahead of their time. What better place to actually 'listen' to the vibrations the engine makes? And what better way to do it? I seriously doubt you would find an older car (1992) with a knock sensor. A load cell is really just a bathroom scale on steroids. But I've never had one in my hand to inspect it.
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